Vintage Inspiration

January 28th, 2010

As a former costume designer, I’ve made clothing from many historic periods, including Medieval, Tudor, Turn of the Century, Roaring Twenties, WWII era and so on. Every designer has their favorite historic period, though I suspect the 1920’s and 1940’s figure high on everyone’s list.

Cremerie racerback and shorts set. Photo by Polina Osherov.

All fashion designers are influenced by what came before, as evidenced by the cycle of fashion. (Surely you’ve noticed that flared pants hems have come around a few times in your lifetime?) Some designers even completely copy another design from a previous era, perhaps calling it an “hommage.” Mostly, though, we take something we like and try to modernize and personalize it to become our own design.

In many ways, the embroidered cotton racerback and shorts set is influenced by the lingerie from the 1920’s. I collect vintage clothing bits (and patterns), as most designers do. I always find ‘20’s lingerie very endearing, because it’s all about details, not structure. The tap shorts were usually a very soft silk, like a charmeuse, and had a nice bit of inset lace detail. The bras tended to be completely unstructured (the silhouette for that time period is very flat chested). Twenties’ and Thirties’ slips were “sweet nothings,” soft, silky and inset with airy lace.

Since I know that lingerie tends to be given as a gift, I feel that it is as important for the lingerie to look good in a gift box as it does on the body. I want a woman to open the box and immediately notice the delicate details and softness of the materials. I decided to follow the example of the 1920’s lingerie and create a set that could be given as a wedding, Valentine’s Day or birthday gift. The resulting set, the Cremerie racerback and shorts, is made of very soft embroidered 100% cotton lawn. This fabric is a high quality fabric that feels great on the skin, and only gets softer when washed. It’s also the tiniest bit translucent, which I think is incredibly sexy. The racerback top has lovely, delicate (and soft) stretch lace at the hem that gently hugs the waistline. A narrower soft lace frames the decolletage. The cups are shaped to flatter the bust, but they are as soft and unstructured as the Twenties’ lingerie. Small hidden hooks and bars are the front closure, and provide a very delicate look to the garment.

Wedding lingerie set by Sweet Revenge Lingerie

Back view Cremerie set. Photo by Polina Osherov.

The shorts are slightly flared at the hip to flatter your upper thigh. A tiny tuck and soft lace finishes the hem. They are short, but not so short that you feel too exposed. The button fly and the delicate gathers at the waist provide some great details. The satin ribbon drawstring is functional (provides an adjustable fit), but is also very feminine and decorative.

The set is beautiful enough to give as a gift, but is practical enough to be worn and enjoyed often.

The Back Story…

December 26th, 2009

At my business, Mercurious Designs, I work with a number of entrepreneurs. Because I offer pattern making and sample making services, I get to help develop new products and see their progress in the market. I have even designed products for fledgling companies, made loads of samples…basically watched others launch their businesses and enjoyed their progress. Really, though, I am a designer at heart. I felt the need to see something of my own “out there” and appreciated. I designed a line of lingerie for Indianapolis’ Midwest Fashion Week in October of 2008, keeping an eye to mass production possibility. I wasn’t sure at the time that I would have the guts to actually produce the line (or at least a portion of it), and only decided in May 2009 to move forward.

I decided on sleep wear and lingerie for several reasons, some of which were purely practical. I had worked with a three companies developing sleepwear and lingerie, and so had developed a good feel for what works and what doesn’t work. I have been unsatisfied with the sleepwear options that I have bought for myself, and decided it would be a good place for me to break into retail. Also, I simply enjoy the simplicity and pure femininity of lingerie. I’ve had a lot of fun designing these pieces, and I hope that people have as much fun wearing them!

Sweet Revenge Lingerie is meant to be feminine, comfortable, easy care, and unusual. It’s meant as a treat, something special that you buy for yourself (or receive as a gift), but that’s also practical enough to wear as an every day item. The designs are targeted at the younger crowd, college age through thirties, though I’ve noticed that the appeal isn’t limited to that age range. I think we are all younger in our hearts, and while it can be a bad thing to dress too young in your professional life, there’s absolutely no reason to curb your appetite for frills in your sleepwear.

The initial line’s palette is based on “sweet treats,” like chocolate, raspberry mousse, whipped cream. The Spring 2010 pieces are all lighter colors, but the Fall 2010 pieces will integrate the chocolate browns and café latte colors into the collection. The spring line is all 100% cottons, designed to be lightweight and soft for those steamy summer nights or spring break trip to warmer places. The print (which I am calling Flirtini), is a cherry blossom print in dark pinks, café au lait, mint green and chocolate brown. The embroidered cotton is white on white, designed as a sweet but sexy bridal set or just as a good summer play set. The logo tank is the “pirate tattoo” version of the Sweet Revenge logo printed on a pale pink baby rib knit camisole. I have included fun details that make the pieces unique from what’s available in the chain stores. Since I am a pattern maker, I like to be a little playful with vintage inspired details, like tiny ruffles or tucks. I think they add a lot of visual interest–and sometimes they can conceal flaws.

Catherine Fritsch

Launches January 10, 2010 for Valentine’s Day