The Fashion Unbound call for designers asked for uncanny silhouettes and unexpected materials. To make it Sweet Revenge, I’m taking inspiration from structural historic underpinnings and modernizing the look for a tongue-in-cheeky look at lingerie. Corsets and petticoats mix with funky accessories to create looks that are technically undergarments, but the beautiful fabrics and startling silhouettes make them oh-so-much more.

The shows are October 22nd, 7pm and 8pm, at the Toby Theatre in the Indianapolis Museum of Art. The last fashion shows the IMA held were packed to capacity, so you may want to purchase tickets in advance. The price of admission is $12 for public, $7 for IMA members. See the IMA website for more information.

Printed velvet corset with vintage chemise.

Sweet Revenge is up with the times. Looking ahead to Spring 2011, we’ve come up with some basic pieces in more luxurious fabrics, which can mix and match with corsets and waist cinchers. Wear them at home, or layer them for a “going out” look, I won’t tell! The basic nightgowns/negligees are made of cottons and silks, while the corsets are made of damasks and printed velvets, all in a palette of cream, lilac, gold and white. Fresh, playful and just right for spring.

Golds, creams, lilac and white make the palette fresh for spring.

The youthfulness of ruffles (left) and elegance of silk shantung (right). Sweet Revenge Spring 2011.

Sweet Revenge's white embroidered nightie with gold cincher, jewelry by Cheeky Couture. Photo by TV Ryan

Let’s start with this: it is unbearably hot and humid in Indianapolis right now. I believe we have some rain forest birds and frogs currently living in our yard. So when you put several hundred people in two (albeit very large) rooms, the air handlers couldn’t quite keep up. But apparently we are dedicated to our craft, because we stuck it out for a very long day. A cooler full of wine, water and Diet Coke (in that order) keep me in good spirits, as did meeting a lot of interesting and creative people.

I’m including a very short video clip–which I didn’t intentionally take, because it sums up the craziness back stage. I had tucked my camera into my bra strap (stupid pocketless dress), and of course dropped it twice in the course of the night. Therefore, when I attempted to take a quick snapshot backstage I ended up with this video instead…

I’d asked Amanda to model for me at the last minute–literally about 15 minutes before we were to be backstage–because another model had a conflict (the hair and makeup used for another designer was too extreme for my items). Amanda was gracious enough to agree and we did her hair and makeup VERY quickly. Luckily, she looks great to begin with.

She’s wearing an ivory corset by Sweet Revenge made of satin taffeta, embellished with machine embroidered pink flowers. We’ve laced the corset up the back with ivory satin ribbon, which is surprisingly sturdy but also looks pretty cute. The corset is an overbust style, made to be worn by itself or with something under it, as seen here.

The slip or nightgown underneath, also by Sweet Revenge, is a sheer cotton gauze cut on the bias, with crisscrossed spaghetti straps. It has a gentle elastic across the back to hug it to your body. The cups (which you can’t see because of the corset) are ruched. The hem, which hits at mid-to high thigh, is a circular ruffle finished by a serger rolled edge. Very delicate.

Amanda’s jewelry is by a local company called Cheeky Couture. She’s wearing a multi strand faux pearl bracelet and a choker with a pearl and rhinestone medallion. Visit Cheeky Couture at http://cheekycoutureonline.com.

Four locals model for one of the vendors at Fashion Expo

Beth Bennett's display of her cotton and linen line entitled "Picnic" at the vendor area of Fashion Expo

In the world of retail, designers have to plan at least a season in advance in order to have time to bring the products to market. So that means I am now working on the Winter 2010/2011 line. And no, I don’t mean a polyester fleece sack with sleeves. That contraption make me shudder! If anything was designed to work as birth control, it’s that Snuggly thing. And by the way, if there ever was a fabric designed to create static cling–it’s polyester fleece. That stuff is a pet hair magnet!

No, I am talking about a set of pajamas that is soft against the body, in warm colors and fabrics that make you feel really pampered. I’m using thermal underwear as a place to design from. Why thermals? Well, they hug the body’s contours and don’t allow cold air to sneak in at the ankles and wrists. I have a pair of flannel pjs that in theory would be warm, but every time I sit down a puff of cold air comes up from the bottom through the neckline. Brr. Plus those buttons do get rather cold.

I wanted something that was long enough to cover my ankles and wrists, because I find that purchased pjs always shrink enough that the pants and sleeves end up about 2” too short.  But I haven’t forgotten the petite gals, because these are designed in a way that allows the cuffs to be folded back and actually look good. I’ve designed the legging bottoms to have a deep cuff, much like on thermal underwear but about 5” long. When it is folded back, it looks quite natural. But it can be rolled down over the ankle bone and even a bit onto the foot to keep your legs and ankles toasty. The sleeve cuffs are designed in much the same way.

I’m hoping to use either a rayon blend or silk blend jersey on these items, either of which is very soft and of course washable. I want something with just enough spandex to hug your body and provide slight support for all your jiggly bits. For you teeny boppers who don’t know what I’m talking about, just wait. Gravity is a harsh mistress! It’s nice to have something that fits and gently supports the bosom, butt and thighs…so you feel comfy but sleek and catlike.

Let’s talk about another issue I have always had with pjs and sweatpants, which I sometimes wear around the house in the winter. The waistband! I hate the big, bulky waistbands. I don’t particularly want to have a corrugated tummy after having worn a pair of sweats or pjs bottoms. Why do they have to dig into me like that? The answer is, they shouldn’t. My leggings have a nice smooth waistband using the gentle stretch of the jersey and a soft drawstring. No more corrugated tummy.

Cremerie racerback and shorts set. Photo by Polina Osherov.

All fashion designers are influenced by what came before, as evidenced by the cycle of fashion. (Surely you’ve noticed that flared pants hems have come around a few times in your lifetime?) Some designers even completely copy another design from a previous era, perhaps calling it an “hommage.” Mostly, though, we take something we like and try to modernize and personalize it to become our own design.

In many ways, the embroidered cotton racerback and shorts set is influenced by the lingerie from the 1920’s. I collect vintage clothing bits (and patterns), as most designers do. I always find ‘20’s lingerie very endearing, because it’s all about details, not structure. The tap shorts were usually a very soft silk, like a charmeuse, and had a nice bit of inset lace detail. The bras tended to be completely unstructured (the silhouette for that time period is very flat chested). Twenties’ and Thirties’ slips were “sweet nothings,” soft, silky and inset with airy lace.

Since I know that lingerie tends to be given as a gift, I feel that it is as important for the lingerie to look good in a gift box as it does on the body. I want a woman to open the box and immediately notice the delicate details and softness of the materials. I decided to follow the example of the 1920’s lingerie and create a set that could be given as a wedding, Valentine’s Day or birthday gift. The resulting set, the Cremerie racerback and shorts, is made of very soft embroidered 100% cotton lawn. This fabric is a high quality fabric that feels great on the skin, and only gets softer when washed. It’s also the tiniest bit translucent, which I think is incredibly sexy. The racerback top has lovely, delicate (and soft) stretch lace at the hem that gently hugs the waistline. A narrower soft lace frames the decolletage. The cups are shaped to flatter the bust, but they are as soft and unstructured as the Twenties’ lingerie. Small hidden hooks and bars are the front closure, and provide a very delicate look to the garment.

Back view Cremerie set. Photo by Polina Osherov.

The shorts are slightly flared at the hip to flatter your upper thigh. A tiny tuck and soft lace finishes the hem. They are short, but not so short that you feel too exposed. The button fly and the delicate gathers at the waist provide some great details. The satin ribbon drawstring is functional (provides an adjustable fit), but is also very feminine and decorative.

The set is beautiful enough to give as a gift, but is practical enough to be worn and enjoyed often.

As a thanks to new customers, Sweet Revenge is offering free gift wrap for items purchased before February 14th, 2010. To take advantage of this, please select gift wrap and add it to your cart before you check out.

Designing a Logo…

I’ve been toying with the idea of a logo tank top or camisole for a while now. I want something that promotes Sweet Revenge, but it has to have a lot of personality. I want it to convey the idea behind the brand, that is the combination of feminine and saucy, sweetness and strength. My female heroes are always the ones who are not only beautiful, but bold.

I’ve debated on the look of the logo…I wanted to use a graphic that implied the “sweet” and then give it a twist to a slightly darker feel. First I goofed around with combining a graphic version of cherries with a heart shaped shadow, which turned out pretty well, though I think I’ll save that version for a later printing. I ended up with what my husband says looks like a tattoo:  a script version of the brand name surrounding a comic-book style shattered heart.  It has that slightly tough look to it, and I used browns and pink to give it sort of a vintage 1970s feel.  I’m happy with it–it’s clean, to the point but it has a lot of personality because it’s hand drawn.

The logo is printed on an American Apparel cotton jersey camisole–it’s soft, cute and perfect to sleep in. Look for more sizes and colors in the near future…

Now I’m looking for the perfect gal to model it for the web catalog. Someone brainy, bold, sassy and perhaps even with a tat or two. Any takers?

Add gift wrap to your cart!

Designer’s Note: Establishing a Mood

When I design,  I start with a mood.  How do I want to feel when I am wearing this? How do I want others to perceive me when I’m wearing this? What’s the context?

Sure, it sounds a little extreme for lighthearted, flirty sleepwear. But you have to remember, my background is in costume design, so I tend to characterize my designs a bit more than other fashion designers. Let me give you an example of how a particular style came to be.

A few years ago I took a trip to Ireland, and of course we did the required shopping at the Blarney Woolen Mills. I bought a nightgown, and proceeded to fold it and store it for an “occasion,” whatever that might be. Finally I thought: this is silly, I should just wear it.

The nightgown is fairly simple: an unshaped, a-line calf length gown of soft white cotton, with a few rows of cotton lace and a deep ruffle at the hem. The straps have long satin ties at the shoulder. It doesn’t particularly fit my body (it’s pretty much just a sack), but it makes me feel cute and feminine. Therein lies the magic, and it inspired me to design the Spring 2010 line of cotton lawn pieces for Sweet Revenge Lingerie.

Photo by Polina Osherov

Here is what I was picturing as I designed, for example, the Flirtini print camisole and Capri pajama set. It’s a hot July evening, the windows are open and crickets are doing their thing. I’ve got a bottle of nail polish open as I’m finishing off the last few toes. I don’t think my husband (or anyone else, for that matter) cares if my toes are painted or not, but it makes me happy.  I’m halfway through that Nevada Barr mystery that‘s sitting next to me on the couch, and the cats are busy watching for rabbits out the windows. I’m wearing a very lightweight cotton camisole and Capri pants–with ruffles–and I feel comfortable, cute and relaxed. There is no elastic to bite into me, no scratchy lace to make me itch. I just feel cute.

This is how the Flirtini print camisole and Capri set came to be.

Capri back waist drawstring detail

Capri pants hem detail

I decided on sleep wear and lingerie for several reasons, some of which were purely practical. I had worked with a three companies developing sleepwear and lingerie, and so had developed a good feel for what works and what doesn’t work. I have been unsatisfied with the sleepwear options that I have bought for myself, and decided it would be a good place for me to break into retail. Also, I simply enjoy the simplicity and pure femininity of lingerie. I’ve had a lot of fun designing these pieces, and I hope that people have as much fun wearing them!

Sweet Revenge Lingerie is meant to be feminine, comfortable, easy care, and unusual. It’s meant as a treat, something special that you buy for yourself (or receive as a gift), but that’s also practical enough to wear as an every day item. The designs are targeted at the younger crowd, college age through thirties, though I’ve noticed that the appeal isn’t limited to that age range. I think we are all younger in our hearts, and while it can be a bad thing to dress too young in your professional life, there’s absolutely no reason to curb your appetite for frills in your sleepwear.

The initial line’s palette is based on “sweet treats,” like chocolate, raspberry mousse, whipped cream. The Spring 2010 pieces are all lighter colors, but the Fall 2010 pieces will integrate the chocolate browns and café latte colors into the collection. The spring line is all 100% cottons, designed to be lightweight and soft for those steamy summer nights or spring break trip to warmer places. The print (which I am calling Flirtini), is a cherry blossom print in dark pinks, café au lait, mint green and chocolate brown. The embroidered cotton is white on white, designed as a sweet but sexy bridal set or just as a good summer play set. The logo tank is the “pirate tattoo” version of the Sweet Revenge logo printed on a pale pink baby rib knit camisole. I have included fun details that make the pieces unique from what’s available in the chain stores. Since I am a pattern maker, I like to be a little playful with vintage inspired details, like tiny ruffles or tucks. I think they add a lot of visual interest–and sometimes they can conceal flaws.

Catherine Fritsch

Launches January 10, 2010 for Valentine’s Day