Photo by Anna Ziemniak, MUA Misty Al-Eryani of Fierce Looks. Hair by Philip Salmon.

What is a corset? Many people confuse a corset with a bustier. A bustier is an over-the-bust garment  (not a  foundation garment) that is lightly boned and fits snugly. Bustiers often have shaped cups with underwire structure, and either zip closed or close with a hook and eye tape at the front.

A corset, on the other hand, is usually not designed to be worn by itself. It often doesn’t completely cover the bust, and is made several inches smaller than your measurements. In fact, if you tighten a corset and the backs meet, you know it’s too big.  Corsets also are much more heavily boned than bustiers, using steel flat bones or steel spiral bones. While the fronts may or may not open, the back is always laced closed with a sturdy cotton or nylon lacing. The intent is to compress your body and raise the bust, while a bustier merely fits it closely.

Finding a ready made corset to fit you is not difficult, unless you have a very long or short torso. You want to find a corset that itself measures 2-4″ smaller than your measurements at bust line, waist and hip.  If you are a small or extra small, you won’t be able to tighten the corset as much as if you are a larger size, since fat compresses (and moves) much more easily. If you wear corsets more frequently, you may be able to compress yourself much more than a “newbie.”  Buy a corset that’s enough smaller so that it will still fit you as you train your body.

If you’re looking for something special, or you’re not finding the style or fit you need, you can always have one custom made. Fabric costs don’t usually play much role in the cost of a custom corset, since you generally only need a yard or a little more. However, don’t skimp on labor; a great pattern and construction can mean the difference between that perfect hourglass corset that will last you decades, or a barrel shaped quasi-bustier that isn’t worth the fabric it’s made of.

Be careful in choosing a corset style. While it may seem like a good idea to build your corset taller, after wearing it for an hour or so you will realize why that’s a bad idea. The flesh under your arms is very sensitive, and having a stiff corset digging into your underarm can become really irritating. Also, test it out while sitting down. A corset that feels fine while standing up may be unbearable sitting down if it is made too long at the front, or too tall at the bust. I recommend a corset that fits from bust point to mid-hip. A mid-bust corset will also create the most attractive decolletage.

Don’t forget that a corset, while usually strapless, can have straps! Eighteenth century corsets had very high backs and straps, so if you are busty and want some lift, this is the way to go.

If you’re interested in having a custom corset built for you, remember to allow about 3 weeks. Contact us via and we’ll design one just for you!